Unganzenji Temple [雲巌禅寺] / Reigando Cave (In Kyushu Region, Kumamoto Prefecture)
The Five Hundred Disciples of Buddha are a large group of stone Buddha statues on the Unganzenji Temple grounds, located at the base of Mt. Kinpo in the western part of Kumamoto City. Also located within the Unganzenji Temple grounds is Reigando Cave, the cave where Miyamoto Musashi wrote his famous “The Book of Five Rings”. The Five Hundred Disciples of Buddha were supposedly donated over a period of 24 years by a merchant in Kumamoto named Fuchidaya Gihei. The postures and expressions are unique for each statue, all of which lined up row upon row along the mountainside lend the area a truly surreal and mysterious atmosphere.
Unganzenji is an ancient Buddhist temple dating back to 1351 when the Chinese High Monk Toryou Eiyo made the Reigando (meaning spirit rock cave) a place of worship. Valued as a place for meditation, the cave has attracted monks, poets, and warriors over the centuries. The temple is a short walk downhill from the car park and around 20 minutes from the nearest bus stop. At the entrance to the temple, you will see some copies of relics and art attributed to Miyamoto Musashi.
On your right there is a large stone drinking fountain. The path is part natural rock and part manmade, it can be slippery but there are handrails. The path winds past a steep rocky hillside which is dotted with the peaceful forms of 500 enlightened followers of Buddha. These were created by a rich merchant in 1779, taking over a quarter of a century, each statue is unique, some almost lifelike, some comical, sadly many are headless due to earthquake damage. It is said that if you examine each one closely you are sure to find a face you recognise.
At the end of the path, you come to some larger stone monuments and the elevated cave entrance in the wall of the cliff. In past times the cave would have been accessed by rope ladder or climbing the rock face nowadays it is a little easier with a short but steep stone staircase. The cave mouth forms a huge window looking out on to the forest. In the centre of the cave is the large meditation stone, a huge boulder of volcanic tuff. At the rear of the cave, the four-faced goddess Iwato Kanon is enshrined. The statue is said to have mysteriously washed up at the cave 1000 years ago after the ship that was carrying it sunk.
There is a small restaurant and English antiques shop in a lovely old farmhouse near the entrance to Unganzenji temple called Kokopelli, which makes a great place to have a relaxing lunch or enjoy a slice of homemade cake while enjoying the beautiful countryside views.
More Detail…
Unganzenji is a small Buddhist temple of Soto Zen sect located about 14 km west of Kumamoto station. There is Mount Kinbo (“Kinbôzan” in Japanese, 665 m) which is an inactive volcano, and the temple is on the west side of the mountain. It is said that it was established by a Chinese priest in 1351. There is a cave at the back hill of the temple. It is called Reigando (霊巌洞). A statue of Kannon had been enshrined in the cave before the foundation of the temple. So this temple is also Iwato Kannon (岩戸観音) meaning “rock door”.
Miyamoto Musashi (1584-1645) was a legendary swordsman in Japan. He devised the swordsmanship style of using two swords, and it is said that he won all matches of swordsmanship throughout his life. In his later years, he wrote “Gorin no sho” in Reigando cave. It is a book of the secrets of his swordsmanship, and has been introduced to overseas countries as “The Book of Five Rings”.
Along the path between the temple and Reigando, there is Gohyaku-rakan (五百羅漢). There are a lot of stone statues of Buddha on the rocky slope of the mountain. These were put by a merchant in Kumamoto. By his order, they were created by many stonemasons for 24 years from 1779.
Temple and Cave Entrance fee: Adults 200 Yen, Children (Ages 6 – 15) 100 Yen
Opening Hours: 08:00 to 17:00
How to get there:
There is Sakuramachi Bus Terminal near Kumamoto Castle. From the bus terminal, by route bus to Kawachi-onsen center, 29 minutes to Iwato-kannon Iriguchi stop.
- By taxi
Traveling from the city center expect to pay approx 3,500 Yen for the 30-minute drive to Reigandou Cave or book a sightseeing taxi for a few hours. Kumamoto Taxi ( Tel. 0120012086) offers this service.
- By bus
Take the 新6 bus from Stand 4 of the Kumamoto Kotsu Center (the name of the city bus terminal). Get off at Iwato Kannon Iriguchi, it costs 550 Yen one way ( pay in cash when you leave the bus) then walk up the hill for 15 to 20 minutes on a winding road that leads you through Mekan orange orchards, when you see a large and unflattering statue of Musashi seated in meditation in a car park – you are nearly there.
- Buses depart from Kumamoto Kotsu Center to Iwato Kannon Iriguchi at: 07:55, 10:30, 13:10, 14:20, 16:20, 18:20
- Buses depart from Iwato Kannon Iriguchi back to Kumamoto City at: 07:01, 09:16, 11:41, 14:21, 15:21, 17:36
